r- 


F 

411 
.H56 
1908 


H5^ 


DODGES 
EOGRAPHY 

OF 


HINEMON 


Rand  M-NaUy  &  Co. 


"' ''g 


LIBRARY 
Connecticut  State  College 


Vol. 


:ii  es-f 


Class 


?/^.7 


M6f 


^£lS._£..^i?^(giL_iuiI^ 


aia-i. 


Date 


C^..d  fy.    1911 


BOOK    910.7.H58    c.  I 

HINEMON    »    GEOGRAPHY    OF    ARKANSAS 


3  11S3  DDSDbSlfl  S 


\ 


'O 


This  Book  may  be  kept  out 

T^FO  JVEEKS 

1"^  is  subject  to   a    fire  of 
^TT^    ,    4-  .  +Kereafter. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


THE    GEOGRAPHY   OF    ARKANSAS 

By  John  H.  Hinemon,  former  State  Superintendent  of  Schools,  Arkansas 

CopyrlBht,  IW^.  l>y  Ran.l,  MoNslly  it  Co. 


I.  ARKANSAS  AS  A  WHOLE  . 
Location  and  Size.  Arkansas  (pronounced 
Ar'k^/n-sa').  one  of  the  Southern  States  of  the 
Mississippi  Basin,  lies  between  the  parallels 
of  33  degrees  and  36  degrees  30  minutes  north 
latitude.  The  state  extends  westward  from 
the  Mississippi  River  about  250  miles,  and 
the  distance  from  its  northern  to  its  southern 
boundary  line  is  about  240  miles;  in  shape, 
therefore,  it  is  almost  a  square.  (Fig.  2.)  It 
contains  an  area  of  53,850  square  miles,  of 
which  53,045  square  miles  are  land.  This 
makes  Arkansas  twenty-third  in  size  among 
the  states  of  the  Union,  its  area  being  about 
one-fifth  that  of  Texas  and  about  the  same 
as   that  of   Alabama   and    North   Carolina. 


«"s?r: 


irface.  All  the  principal  rivers  of  the 
state  run  either  in  a  southerly  or  south- 
easterly direction.  (Fig.  4.)  This  shows  us 
that  the  general  surface  of  Arkansas  is  an 
inclined  plane  with  its  base  along  the  rivers 
of  the  south  and  east  and  extending  upward 
toward  the  mountains  of  the  northwest. 
These  mountains  are  a  part  of  the  Ozark 
Plateau.  (Adv.  Geog.,  Fig.  191.)  North  of 
the  Arkansas  River  and  extending  from  the 
western  boundary  to  the  Black  River  are  the 
Boston  Mountains.  In  the  western  part  of 
the  state  the  Magazine  Mountains  lie  south 
of  the  Arkansas,  while  still  farther  south 
are  the  Fourche  Mountains.  The  scenery 
throughout  all  the  mountainous  section  of 
northwestern  Arkansas  and  along  the  White 


Fig.  I.     .4  scene  in  Marion  County  in  the  picturesque  mountain  region  of  northwestern  Arkansas. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  2.     A  political  map  of  Arkansas. 


Cofyright,  /gor,  h  Rantt,  McXally  £-  C^iiif'aty 


River  above  Batesville  is  remarkable  for  its 
beauty.  (Figs,  i  and  5.)  It  is  a  region  that  has 
much  of  variety.  There  are  rugged  mountains, 
primeval  forests,  picturesque  streams,  and  wide 
areas  of  upland  farm  and  fertile  valley  lands. 

Mount  Magazine  (Fig.  6),  in  Logan  County, 
with  an  altitude  of  2,823  feet,  is  the  highest 
elevation  in  the  state  (Fig.  3J  and  is  said  to  be 
the  highest  point  between  the  Rockies  and  the 
AUeghenies. 

The  lowlands  or  plains  of  the  southeast  are  a 
part  of  the  Gulf  Coastal  Plain.  (Adv.  Geog.,  Fig. 
191.)  Long  ages  ago  these  lands  formed  a  part 
of  the  basin  of  the  extended  Gulf  of  Mexico. 
Gradually  the  region  rose,  the  waters  of  the 
ocean  slowly  retreated,  and  at  the  same  time 
the  White,  the  Arkansas,  and  the  Red  ri\-crs 
became  tributary  to  the  extended  trunk  of  the 
Mississippi.  In  Arkansas  the  old  coast  line  of 
the  Gulf  is  almost  identical  with  the  present  line 
of  the  St.  Louis,  Iron  Mountain  &  Southern  Rail- 
way, extending  from  Texarkana  to  Cairo,  and  all 
that  portion  of  the  state  between  this  line  and 
the  Mississippi  was  covered  at  one  time  bv  the 
W'aters  of  the  extended  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  uplands  of  Arkansas  constitute  about 
tW'O-fifths  of  the  whole  area  of  the  state,  and  in 
this  region  are  foimd  the  best  fruit-producing 
sections.  The  soil  of  the  lowlands  is  made  up 
largely  of  rich  allu^•ium  on  which  cotton  thrives 
luxuriantly,  so  that  this  is  one  of  the  liest  cot- 
ton-producing regions  of  the  country.     (Fig.  20.) 

Drainage.  For  the  most  part  Arkansas  is 
drained  by  five  principal  water  courses:  the 
Red,  Arkansas,  Ouachita,  White,  and  St.  Francis 
rivers.  The  waters  of  the  state  flow  in  a  general 
direction  toward  the  southeast  and  reach  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico  by  way  of  the  Mississippi  River. 
With  the  exception  of  the  Ouachita,  these  five 
rivers  all  flow  directly  into  the  Mississippi,  which 
forms  the  entire  eastern  boundaiy  of  Arkansas. 
(Fig.  2.)  These  streams  have  numerous  tribu- 
taries, and  Arkansas  has  altogether  more  miles 
of  navigable  water  ways  in  proportion  to  its 
area  than  any  other  state  in  the  Union. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  3.     A  physical  map  of  Arkansas. 

The  Red  River  rises  in  Texas  amid  the  rich 
Ted  loams  of  the  Llano  Estacado  (Adv.  Geog., 
Fig.  189),  and  because  of  heavy  and  sudden 
rainfalls  its  waters  are  heavily  laden  with  a 
red  sediment.  This  gives  the  stream  the 
peculiar  color  to  which  it  owes  its  name. 
The  Arkansas  River  rises  in  the 
Rocky  Mountains  of  Colorado. 
Its  waters  also  carry  a  large 
amount  of  sediment,  which  in 
time  of  high  water  is  deposited 
throughout  the  flood  plains  and 
gives  to  the  bottom  lands  great 
fertility  and  productiveness. 
Ordinarily  the  overflows  of  the 
Red  and  the  Arkansas  rivers 
are  not  caused  by  local  rains, 
but  are  the  result  of  weather 
conditions  near  their  sources. 

The  river  basins  contain 
many  "oxbow"  lakes  that  have 
been  formed  by  changes  in  the 
courses  of  the  streams.  (Adv. 
Geog.,  Fig.  49.)  At  each  bend 
of  a  river  there  is  constantly  a 
tendency  to  cut  away  the  outer 
bank.     If  in  course  of  time,  the 


water  cuts  through  the  bank,  it  forms 
what  is  called  a  "chute"  or  "cut-off." 
Frequently  the  ends  of  the  old  river 
beds  are  closed  by  silt  and  completely 
separated  from  the  new  channel,  and 
thus  "oxbow"  lakes  are  formed. 

The  Arkansas  (Fig.  9)  is  a  very  slug- 
gish stream;  its  bed  is  filled  with  shoals 
and  sand  bars,  and  where  it  comes  in 
contact  with  the  waters  of  the  Missis- 
sippi a  bar  has  gradually  been  fonned 
across  its  mouth.  About  seventy  years 
ago  the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  cut 
their  way  to  the  White  at  a  point 
about  sixty  miles  above  the  mouth  of 
that  river.  Arkansas  River  boats  are 
now  able  to  pass  from  the  ]\Iississ;  ppi 
into  the  White  through  this  "cut-oft"" 
and  thence  into  the  waters  of  the  Arkansas. 
This  "chute"  formed  an  island  which  contains 
an  area  of  more  than  fifty  thousand  acres,  is 
densely  wooded,  and  in  great  part  is  subject 
to  overflow.  This  island  is  an  extrem.ely 
wild  region  and  a  great  resort  for  sjjortsmen. 


Tteproduced  from  John  0.  Bnnner's  Geolo^cml  Rdief  Map  of  .\rkui8U.  oourteB?  of  A.  B.  Puidi  a. 

Fig.  4.     A  relief  map  of  Arkansas. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OP  ARKANSAS 


in  the  lower  part  of 


The  White  River 
(Fig.  8)  rises  in  the 
extreme  northwestern 
part  of  the  state  and, 
with  many  meanders, 
flows  in  a  southeaster- 
ly direction  toward  the 
Mississippi.  Dams 
built  across  the  river 
near  Batesville  (Fig. 
7),  render  this  beauti- 
ful stream  navigable 
throughout  the  year 
as  far  as  Buffalo  City, 
Marion  County.  From 
its  source  to  the  city  of 
Batesville  the  current 
of  White  River  is  swift 
its  course  it  winds  slowly  through  a  low 
alluvial  valley  with  a  soil  remarkable  for  its 
fertility.  White  River  and  its  tributaries 
are  supplied  with  water  which  pours  from 
the  rocky  hillsides  in  streams  fed  by  a  multi- 
tude of  springs.  All  these  rivers  are  noted 
for  their  beautifully  transparent  waters,  and 
it  is  due  to  this  characteristic  that  the  prin- 
cipal one  owes  its  name. 

The  St.  Francis  River  rises  in  St.  Francis 
County,  Mis- 
souri. Separa- 
ting Clay  and 
Greene  coun- 
ties from  Dunk- 
lin  County, 
Missouri,  the 
river  then  fol- 
lows a  sinuous 
course  south- 
ward through 
the  counties  of 
Craighead, 
Poinsett,  Cross, 
and  St.  Francis 
and  enters  the 
Mississippi 


CouMepy  of  the  Mlasourl  Paotflo  Rallirk;  C'mpiiiT 

Fir,  5.      llandjord  Bluff,  near  Bulcsvillc       1  licsc  iiwuii 

iaiu-likc  deposits  are  of  limestone  and  furnish 

excellent  material  for  building  and 

paving  purposes. 


Fir,, 


6.      A  valley  in   the  Magaziiw  Alountains.      Above  the  valley 

Mount  Magazine,  the  loftiest  summit  in  the  state.      Rugged 

ranges,  broad  valleys,  and  beautiful  streams  ehar- 

acterize  this  entire  region. 


alDout  ten  miles  above 
the  city  of  Helena. 
This  stream  is  navi- 
gable for  about  two 
hundred  miles  and 
passes  through  one  of 
the  richest  farming 
sections  of  the  state. 
Millions  of  acres  of 
rich  lands  in  the  basin 
of  this  stream  are  pro- 
tected from  overflow 
by  the  St.  Francis 
Levee,  which  was  com- 
pleted in  1905.  This 
levee  is  more  than  two 
huntlred  miles  in  extent 
and  was  built  at  a  cost  that  exceeded  four 
million    dollars. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  state  are  numer- 
ous smaller  streams  and  liayous.  Many  of 
these  are  filled  by  water  which  "backs"  into 
their  channels  from  the  Mississippi  River  and 
its  larger  tributaries  during  the  time  of  high 
water.  Throughout  this  section  are  found 
large  numbers  of  "oxbow"  lakes,  which  are 
filled  with  water  during  seasons  of  overflow 
and  remain  as  lakes  when  the  waters  recede. 

Arkansas  is 
one  of  the  best- 
watered  states 
in  the  Union 
and  springs  of 
excellent  water 
exist  in  almost 
every  locality. 
In  the  north- 
western part  of 
the  state  large 
and  beautiful 
springs  are 
abundant,  and 
in  some  the  flow 
is  so  great  that 
they  furnish 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


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B 

PPlPL.----%.:-^ 

1 

1 

Fig.  7. 


T/if  Government  Dam  across  the  White  River 
near  Balesville. 


power  used  in  operating  mills  and  factories. 
Laster  Spring  and  Big  Spring  in  Independ- 
ence County,  Rush  Spring  in  Marion  County, 
Mill  Spring  in  Stone  County,  and  the  spring 
at  Marble  City,  Newton  County,  are  all  noted 
for  their  size  and  their  unusual  volume  of 
water,  ilammoth  Spring,  Fulton  County, 
which  owes  its  name  to  its  enormous  dis- 
charge of  water,  furnishes  abundant  water 
power.  (Fig.  10.)  Its  flow  remains  almost 
unifomi  throughout  the  year,  and  its  dis- 
charge is  said  to  be  9,000  barrels  per  minute. 
The  waters  of  Mammoth  Spring  are  espe- 
cially adapted  to  the  culture  of  bass.  For  this 
reason  a  fish  hatchery  (Fig.  11)  has  recently 
been  placed  here  with  a  view  to  re-stock- 
ing the  streams  of  the  state  with  bass  from 
this  establish- 
ment. Silver 
Spring  and 
Siloam  Springs 
(Fig.  50)  in 
Benton  County 
are  among  the 
most  beautiful 
springs  in  Ar- 
kansas. Silver 
Spring  is  the 
source  of  a 
clear  stream  of 
water  from  two 
to  three  feet 


deep  and  from  six  to  ten  feet  wide.  Eureka 
Springs  is  a  much  frequented  resort.  Big 
Spring,  in  Washington  County,  near  Fayette- 
ville,  has  an  output  of  about  two  and  one-half 
million  gallons  in  twenty -four  hours. 

Blue  Spring,  eight  miles  from  Eureka 
Springs,  Carroll  County,  has  a  basin  about 
forty  feet  in  diameter.  It  is  said  to  be 
several  hundred  feet  deep,  which  accounts 
for  the  deep  blue   appearance   of  its  water. 


Fig. 


One  of  the  great  bridges  spanning  tlte  Arkansas 
River  at  Little  Rock. 


*™"^%»>- 

ta 

It*  V-  ff^a^S 

K 

\^  -^^^k^^BaMAa 

Fig.  8.     .-1  vieiv  of  the  Wliile  River.     In  the  distance  may  be  seen  Dcvall 

Bluff,  one  of  the  most  flourishing  towns  in  the  valley  of  the 

White  and  the  seat  of  growing  industries. 


Climate.  Owing  to  the  position  of  the 
state  the  climate  is  modified  by  winds  from 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Hence  the  winters  are 
never  very  cold  and  the  summers  are  warm. 
Differences  in  altitude  cause  a  considerable 
range  of  temperature  between  the  southeast 

and  northwest 
at  all  seasons. 
(Adv.  Geog., 
Figs.  82  and 
84.)  The  mean 
annual  temper- 
ature (Fig.  12) 
for  1904  was 
60.5  degrees; 
the  mean  tem- 
perature  for 
winter  w  a  s 
41.2  degrees; 
and  that  for 
summer  77.1 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


degrees.  The  highest 
temperature  recorded 
was  105  degrees  and 
the  lowest  5  degrees 
below  zero,  giving  an 
absolute  range  for  the 
year  of  iio  degrees. 
During  the  growing- 
season  the  climate  is 
such  that  agricultural 
and  orchard  products 
in  great  variety  can 
be  produced  abun- 
dantly throughout  the 
larger  part  of  the  state.  The  rainfall  (Fig. 
13)  in  Arkansas  is  nearly  as  great  as  in  any 
part  of  the  eastern  United  States  with  the 
exception  of  the  areas  along  the  Gulf  coast 
and  about  the  summits  of  the  i\ppalachians. 
(Adv.  Geog.,  Fig.  188.)  The  rainfall  for  the 
year  1904  was  43.45  inches.  The  snow  fall 
was  slight,  only  3 . 5  inches. 

Vegetation.  Originally  Arkansas  was  one 
of  the  most  heavily-timbered  states  in  the 
Union,  and  to-day  forests  still  cover  more  than 
three-fourths  of  its  total  area.  The  early 
settlers,  were  extremely  careless  in  their  use 
of  these  valuable  resources,  and  large  areas 
have  been  deforested.  There  is  now,  how- 
ever, a  growing  tendency  to  check  the  useless 


this  river  is  Mamiiiolk  Spri)ig. 


waste  and  destruction 
of  valuable  timber  in 
this  state  as  there  is  in 
all  parts  of  the  country, 
where  the  need  for  sav- 
ing the  limited  timber 
supply  is  recognized. 
In  Arkansas  the  saving 
of  the  timber  is  made 
easier  because  most  of 
her  forests,  especially 
those  of  the  pine  belt, 
have  unusual  self-re- 
newing qualities.  The 
Arkansas  National  Forest,  of  1,073,955  acres 
has  recently  been  established.  It  is  situated 
in  the  western  part  of  the  state  and  farther 
east  than  any  other  National  Forest.  A  large 
area  has  also  been  withdrawn  from  settlement 
as  the  proposed  Ozark  National  Forest. 

Every  variety  of  staple  hard  and  soft  wood 
flourishes  in  Arkansas.  It  is  said  130  kinds 
of  trees  are  found  in  this  state ;  among  these 
are  included  the  black  walnut,  hickories, 
cedar,  oaks,  cypress,  pine,  cottonwood,  elm, 
red  gum,  sycamore,  beech,  black  locust,  and 
maple.  Oak,  walnut,  hickory,  and  ash  of  the 
finest  grades  are  abundant.  The  hard  woods 
are  found  chiefly  north  of  the  Arkansas  River 
and  are  unsurpassed  in  variety  and  quality. 


Fig.  II.     The  Untied  States  Govcniuicnt  fish  hatchery  at  Mammoth  Spring.     The  large  volume  of  cool,  pure  'ivater 

found  here  makes  this  an  ideal  situation  for  the  breeding  of  fish,  especially  bass.     The  young 

fish  are  to  be  distributed  among  the  various  streams  of  the  state. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fir..  12.      TJie  mean  annual  Icmperature  and  rainfall  of  Arkansas. 

In  the  southern  and  southeastern  parts  of 
the  state  are  large  areas  of  magnificent  }'ellow 
pine  timber. 

Animal    Life.     AVhen    the   state   was   first 
explored    and    settled,    wild    animals    were 
abundant.       Large    buffalo    licks,    so-called 
because  the    buffaloes  licked   the  earth  for 
the   salt  which    it    contained,  are   found   in 
the  southeastern  part  of  the  state.     Bears, 
wolves,   and  panthers  were    numerous, 
especially  in  the  bottom  lands  of  the   * 
Mississippi    and    its   tributaries.     Great 
herds   of  deer  were   found   everywhere 
in  the  state.     Swan,  geese,  ducks,  and  tx> 
other  wild   fowl   were   common    on   all 
the  streams  and  lakes.     Swan  Lake,  in  ■'■° 
Jefferson  County,  owes  its  name  to  the 
fact  that  swan  in  large  numbers  then 
frequented    the   locality.      Small   game   ,„ 
was  plentiful  e\^erywhere.     The  buffalo 
has  disappeared  before  the  advance  of  "> 
civilization,    and    other    large    game    is 
found  only  occasionally.     Much  of  this 
wild  life  was  recklessly  slaughtered,  and 
strong  efforts  are  now  being  made  by 
the  state  to  preser\'e  and  protect  game, 
fish,  and  birds.     Some  attention  is  also 


being  given  to  the  hatching  of  fish  with 
a  view  to  re-stocking  the  streams  of  the 
state  with  bass  and  other  varieties  of 
food  fish.  In  1903  a  law  was  passed 
prohibiting  the  shipping  of  game  or  fish 
out  of  the  state,  a  measure  that  will 
greatly  aid  in  the  protection  and  pres- 
ervation of  the  game. 

Native  Peoples.     When  European  ex- 
plorers first  visited  the  Mississippi  Val- 
ley,   two    great   tribes   of   Indians,   the 
Osages  and  Quapaws,  lived  in  the  region 
now  comprising  the  state  of  Arkansas. 
The    territory    north    of    the    Arkansas 
River  was  occupied  by  the  Osages,  while 
the   Quapaws  —  called  Akansea  by  the 
French — were  scattered  over  the  south- 
em  portion  of  the  state.    Under  treaties 
made  in    1808   and    1818    the   Osages   ceded 
their  lands   to  the  Government  and   moved 
farther    west,    and    in    1824    the    Quapaws 
exchanged  their  Arkansas  lands  for  a  grant 
in  northern  Louisiana. 

In    1 81 7     the    Cherokees    migrated    from 
Tennessee  to  Arkansas  and  for  eleven  years 
lived  in  the  northwestern  part  of  that  terri- 
tory.    In  1820  the  Choctaws  came  into  the 
territory  froni  Alabama 
and  Mississippi,  settling 
in  the  southwest.    There 
was  almost  constant 
trouble   with   the  set- 
tlers and  the  Choctaws, 


.-1  Tcrag-c 


Average  JT-SS  itches 


§.    i. 


8-      f 


a    8. 


s; 


FORT  SMITH. 


Fig.  13. 


AMITY. 

TIte  average  annual  rainfall  of  Amity  and  Fort  Smith 
from  iSgy  to  igoj. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Frommjiliotoirmph.     Ccurtesj  of  Mm.  E.  JI,  McDi 

Fig.  14.    Augustus  Hill  Garland. 
A  gifted  citizen  of  Arkansas 
and  one  of  the  most  dis- 
tinguished statesmen 
of  h  is  day. 


in  1825,  readily 
consented  to  ex- 
change their  land 
for  a  large  grant 
farther  west. 

History.  Early 
in  the  sixteenth 
century  DeSoto, 
the  famous 
Spanish  explorer, 
spent  ten  months 
in  the  region  now 
included  in  Ar- 
kansas. Enter- 
ing the  territory 
a  short  distance 
above  the  mouth 
of  the  Arkansas 
he  traveled  iti  a 
northwesterly  direction,  probably  as  far  as 
the  Ozarks  in  what  is  now  Madison  County, 
then  southwest  to 
the  hot  springs  near 
the  Ouachita.  In 
1542  DeSoto  de- 
scended the  Missis- 
sippi River  to  the 
point  where  it  re- 
ceives the  Red,  and 
here  on  the  banks 
of  the  great  river 
he  died.'  After 
DeSoto  no  white 
men  visited  this 
section  for  a  period 
of  one  hundred  and 
thirty  years.  In 
1673  Marquette 
and  Joliet  explored 
the   lower   Missis- 


FiG.  16.     Hernando   Ije^.'to    the 

discoverer  of  the  Alississipp! 

and  the  first  white  man  to 

visit   the   region   now 

known  as  Arkansas. 


Fig.  15.     A  historical  map  showing  the  areas  originally  occupied 

by  the  Indians  and  the  earliest  explorations  and 

settlements  made  in  Arkansas. 


sippi  Valley,  and 
on  their  maps  the 
Indians  of  this 
region  were  des- 
ignated as  the 
Arkansas.  A  few- 
years  later  (1682) 
LaSalle,  with 
Tonti,  explored 
this  region  and 
took  possession 
of  the  country 
for  France. 

Louisiana  re- 
mained under 
French  rule  until 
the  close  of  the 
French  and  In- 
dian War  (1763), 
when  it  was  ceded  to  Spain.  In  1800  Spain 
ceded  the  territory  to  France  and  in  1803  it 

was  purchased  by 
the  United  States. 
The  District  of 
Arkansas  was  es- 
tablished and  a 
judge  and  com- 
mandant were 
appointed  for  the 
Post.  In  181 8  Ar- 
kansas Territory 
was  organized,  and 
James  Miller,  a  sol- 
dier of  the  War  of 
1 81 2,  was  appoint- 
ed Governor.  In 
1836  Arkansas  was 
admitted  as  a  state. 
Arkansas  seceded 
from  the  Union  in 


'  This  route  and  the  statement  as  to  DeSoto's  death  have 
long  been  accepted  by  many  careful  historians.  They  are  based,  it 
is  claimed,  on  the  original  papers  of  "The  Gentleman  of  Elvas"  and 
those  of  DeBiedma.  They  do  not  agree,  however,  with  later  inter- 
pretations of  these  papers.  Theodore  H.  Lewis,  of  the  Mississippi 
Historical  Society,  Tias  edited  the  original  papers  of  "The  Gentle- 
man of  Elvas"  for  "Spanish  Explorers  in  the  Southern  United 
States",  published  in  1Q07.  The  editor's  notes  throw  so  much  ad- 
ditional light  upon  the  E.xpedition  of  DeSoto  that  in  the  above 


map  we  give,  in  addition  to  the  usual  :;3ute,  one  laid  down  in  ac- 
cordance wi*h  the  results  of  his  researc.l.  In  pages  227-233  of  the 
work  iust  mentioned  is  recorded  the  arrival,  illness,  and  death 
of  DeSoto  at  the  Indian  town,  Guachoya.  Of  this  town  Mr.  Lewis 
says:  "Guachoya  was  in  the  vicinity  of  Arkansas  City,  in  Desha 
County,  and  possibly  at  or  near  the  large  mound  one  mile  to  the 
northward."  On  the  other  hand,  "Publications  of  Arkansas  His- 
torical Association"  says  (Vol.  I.,  p.  128):  "DeSoto  died  and  was 
buried  at  Helena." 


lO 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  17.     The  value  of  farm  products  per  square  mile  in  Arkansas 
census  of  igoo. 

1 86 1 ,  and  during  the  Civil  War  several  impor- 
tant battles  were  fought  within  the  border  of 
the  state.  The  principal  engagements  took 
place  at  Pea  Ridge,  Helena,  Pine  Bluff,  and 
Prairie  Grove.  The  state  furnished  about 
55,000  troops  for  the  Confederate  service. 

In    1868    Arkansas   was  re-admitted   into 
the  Union.     The  period  from  the  close  of 
the  War  Between  the  States  to  the  adoption 
of  the  present  constitution  was  known 
as  the  "Reconstruction."     During  the 
war  with  Spain  (1898),  Arkansas  showed 
her  loyalty  and  devotion  to  the  Union 
by  promptly  responding  to  the  call  for 
troops  with  a  full  quota  of  volunteers, 
furnishing  two  regiments  of  soldiers. 

Settlement.  The  first  white  settle- 
ment was  made  by  Tonti  and  twenty- 
two  Frenchmen,  in  1686,  at  Arkansas 
Post.  (Fig.  15.)  In  1718,  encouraged 
by  John  Law,  a  number  of  Germans 
and  negroes  settled  near  the  Post.  No 
other  settlements  were  made  in  this 
region  for  many  years,  and  at  the  time 
of  the  Louisiana  Purchase  there  were 
less  than  three  hundred  white  people 
in  the  area  now  included  in  Arkansas. 


When  Arkansas  entered  the  Union 
the  thirty-five  counties,  into  which  it 
had  been  divided,  contained  a  popula- 
tion of  47,700. 

Agriculture.     Owing  to  the  favorable 
climate  and  the  great  variety  and  fer- 
tility  of   its  soils,  Arkansas  is  preem- 
inently an  agricultural  state.     (Figs.  19 
and  23.)    Its  location  among  the  South- 
ern States  of  the  Mississippi  Basin  and 
its    varying   elevations — ranging   from 
125  to  2,823  feet  above  sea  level — favor 
a  wide  variety  of  products ;  every  crop 
known  between  the  Great  Lakes  and 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  may  be  grown  here. 
Although  a  larger  acreage  is  given 
over  to  corn,  cotton  in  value  is  by  far 
the    most    important    crop    (Fig.     18) 
grown,  and  on  several  occasions  Arkansas  has 
won  the  premium  over  the  world  on  both  long 
and  short  staple  cotton  raised  in  the  fertile 
lowlands  of  the  south  and  southeast.     The 
prairie  lands  in  the  central  part  of  the  state 
are  now  being  utilized  for  the  cultivation  of 
rice.     (Figs.  25,  26,  and  27.)     In  the  alluvial 
sections    corn    and    sugar   cane   are   grown. 
While  fruit  of  the  best  quality  is  produced 


Fig.  iS. 


The  production  of  cotton  per  square  mile  in  Arkansas, 
census  of  iQoo. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OP  ARKANSAS 


II 


Fig.  ig.     The  home  of  an  Arkansas  planter. 

in  all  parts  of  the  state,  the  mountainous 
section  of  the  northwest  is  especially  adapted 
to  the  production  of  berries,  peaches,  and 
apples,  and  is  sometimes  called  "The  Land 
of  the  Big  Red  Apple." 

In  1900,  the  total  value  of  all  farm  crops 
(Fig.  17)  in  Arkansas  was  $56,803,000,  and 
of  this  sum  $28,033,000,  or  about  one-half 
the  total  amount,  was  derived  from  the  sale 
of  cotton.  At  the  same  time  the  value  of 
the  orchard  products  was  $1,250,000,  and 
that  of   small   fruits  and  grapes,   $700,000. 

In  1906  more 
than  2,051,000 
acres  were 
planted  to  cot- 
ton (Figs.  20 
and  21),  and 
the  yield  of 
916,000  bales, 
valued  at  about 
$45  ,000,000, 
gave  Arkansas 
sixth  place 
among  the  cot- 
ton -  producing 
states  of  the 
Union  and  fifth 
among  those  of 
the  Southern 
Mississippi 
Basin  group. 


The  counties  leading  in  importance  are  Jef- 
ferson, Lonoke,  Crittenden,  Lee,  and  Pulaski. 
Nearly  one-half  of  the  total  acreage  under 
crops  is  devoted  to  raising  corn  (Fig.  22), 
chiefly  for  home  consumption.  The  rich, 
deep  soils  of  the  bottom  lands  in  the  north- 
\\-cstern  j^art  of  the  state  and  the  alluvial 


Evening  in  Ihc  cotton  field, 
the  day's  pick. 


Weighing 


Fig.  20. 


soils  of  the  eastern  lowlands  yield  large  crops 
of  this  important  cereal.  Washington,  Ben- 
ton, Independence,  Madison,  and  Randolph, 
in  the  order  named,  are  the  most  important 

corn-producing 
counties. 

Arkansas 
stands  twelfth 
among  the 
states  of  the 
Union  in  the 
production  of 
corn.  In  1906 
a  total  area  of 
2,237,000  acres 
was  devoted 
to  this  cereal. 
About  52,800,- 
200  bushels,  or 
an  average  of 
15,107  bushels 
of  corn  per 
square  mile, 
were  raised. 


Picking  cotton  in  a  field  in  Mississippi  Covinty.    The  deep  alluvial 
soils  of  this  county  yield  i,Soo  pounds  of  cotton  per  acre. 


12 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  22.     A  field  of  com  in  Franklin  County 

The  com  crop  of  that  year  reached  a  valua- 
tion of  ver}^  nearly  $25,000,000. 


c        10 

.■*o       JO        40       JO        fyj        ;o 

So       go    10c 

j4ll  ocrnf>atioits 

j      :      ;      '      1      '      1      '      : 

Dontesttc  and 

persoitiil  service  ^  _ 

L 

Transportation 
and  trade 

—  i 

Manufactures 

_  1 

Professional 
service 

Mining 

J^ishing 

■   1 

Fig.  23.      Proportion    of   persons 
engaged  in  each  class  of  occu- 
pations in  Arkansas, 
census  of  igoo. 

In  the  upland  regions,  where  there  is  a 
good  clay  subsoil,  wheat  (Fig  52),  oats  (Fig. 
24),  barley,  and  rye  are  grown  successfully. 
The  Arkansas  wheat  crop  in  1906  was  valued 
at  $1,436,400  and  her  oats  crop  at  $1,539,- 
000.  Each  year  sees  an  astonishing  increase 
in  the  area  devoted  to  rice.  In  1906  the  rice 
acreage  was  ten  times  as  great  as  in  the 
preceding  year  while  the  yield  of  this  grain 
advanced  from  11,340  to  113,490  bushels. 

Grasses  and  forage  crops  are  grown  in 
almost  all  parts  of  the  state.  The  valleys 
of  the  Red,  White,  and  Mississippi  rivers  are 
admirably  suited  to  the  growth  of  alfalfa,  or 


lucerne,  and  there  is  a  large 
yield  of  these  valuable  forage 
crops  in  Mississippi,  Independ- 
ence, and  Hempstead  counties. 
Sorghum  is  also  widely  grown  as 
a  forage  crop  and,  to  a  limited 
extent,  Kaffir  corn  which  belongs 
to  the  sorghum  family  of  grasses. 
Large  quantities  of  wild  hay  are 
also  harvested,  especially  in 
Arkansas,  Lonoke,  and  Prairie 
counties. 

Horticulture.  In  Arkansas 
every  variety  of  temperate- 
climate  fruit  (Fig.  29)  thrives 
and  yields  abundantly.  Apples 
(Fig.  28)  are  produced  in  in- 
creasing quantities  in  all  the  mountainous 
and  upland  sections  of  the  state.  In  1900 
there  were  about  seven  and  a  half  million 
apple  trees  in  the  state ;  since  then  wide  areas 
have  been  planted  to  this  fruit  and  the  num- 
ber is  far  larger.  Washington  and  Benton 
counties  are  credited  with  the  largest  yield. 
Climate,  sail,  and  drainage  all  favor  the 
growth  of  the  peach,  and  commercial  peach 
orchards  are  now  found  in  many  localities. 
Large  shipments  of  peaches  of  superior  qual- 
ity are  sent  to  the  great  markets  of  the 
country,  the  Arkansas  peach  now  rivaling  in 
perfection  the  widely-known  Arkansas  apple. 
With  the  increased  production   of   peaches 


Fig.  24.      Threshing  oats  on  a  great  grain  farm. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


1.3 


flourishing  canning  factories  have  been  estab- 
lished where  large  quantities  of  the  fruit  are 
canned  and  preserved  for  home  consumption 
and  for  shipment. 

While  pears,  plums,  and  grapes  are  grown 
in  lesser  quantities  for  shipment,  the  culti- 
vation of  the  strawberry  as  a  commercial 
product  has  reached  large  ]5roportions.  In 
1900  no  less  than  12,667,740  quarts  of  straw- 
berries (Fig.  30)  were  harvested. 

The  watermelon  (Fig.  51)  and  the  canta- 
loupe thrive  and  yield  abundantly  in  many 
sections.  Because  of  its  superiority  the 
Arkansas  watermelon  has  won  a  prominent 
place  in  the  markets  of  the  country,  and  has 


Fig.  25.      Tlircsning  rue  ni  Lniiok-c  i  oitnly.      i  iic  jtrtile  prairie  lands 

of  Ihis  county  yield  from  forty  to  seventy-five  bushels 

of  rice  per  acre. 


become  a  leading  and  profitable  crop  in  the 
state  and  one  that  is  constantly  increasing 
in  acreage. 

Live  Stock.  The  mild  climate,  vast 
stretches  of  corn  and  pasture  lands,  and 
many  fine  pure  springs  and  running  streams 
of  water  all  favor  the  live-stock  industry. 
In  recent  years  much  attention  has  been 
given  to  the  breeding  of  cattle,  horses,  sheep 
(Fig.  31),  and  hogs.  First-class  saddle  and 
driving  horses  are  bred  in  many  sections  and 
good  draft  horses  are  displacing  oxen  in  lum- 
bering regions. 

Cattle  thrive  in  every  part  of  the  state 
and  fine  herds  of  the  best  breeds  are  now 


Fig.  26.     Irrigating  a  rice  field.     Wells  sunk  to  depths 

of  from  100  to  750  feet  afford  an  ine.rhaustible 

supply  of  water  for  irrigating  the  crop. 

to  be  seen  in  many  localities.  Cattle  raising 
is  one  of  the  chief  industries  in  Prairie  and 
also  in  Conway  County  and  is 
receiving  increasing  attention  in 
many  other  counties.  Near  the 
larger  cities  where  cotton-seed  oil 
mills  are  located,  large  numbers  of 
cattle  are  fattened  (Fig.  37)  annu- 
ally on  the  cotton-seed  meal  and 
hulls. 

Hogs  have  always  been  of  im.por- 
tance  in  Arkansas  because  the  food 
furnished  by  the  great  forests  of 
mast-bearing  trees,  and  the  mild 
climate  which  permitted  the  stock 
to  live  on  the  ranges,  made  it  pos- 
sible to  raise  them  cheaply.  Much 
been    done   to   improve    the  stock  and 


has 


Arkansas  now  raises  large  numbers  of  hogs 
(Fig.   ;^;j,)   that  compare  favorably  with  the 


Fig.  27.     Harvesting  the  crop  of  an  .\rkansas  rice  field. 


14 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


J^    .  1 1;  .  \i-L-.iiiStr.  'i I'j'i 

standard  stock  of  great  hog-raising  states  like 
Kansas  and   Iowa. 

Natural  condi- 
tions encourage 
the  raising  of  poul- 
try (Fig.  32)  and 
each  year  marks  a 
steady  gain  in  this 
industry.  In  1900 
there  were  in  ^Vr- 
kansas  more  than 
5,000,000  chickens, 
370,000  geese,  180,- 
000  ducks,  and  140,- 
000  turkeys  while 
the  production  of 
eggs  reached  25,- 
500,000  dozens.    In 

the  same  year  bees  ^'°-  -'^'    '^'"  '■''''"■'  "f ''" 

were  kept  on  178,600  farms  and  nearly 
1,500,000  pounds  of  honey  were  pro- 
duced. 

Vegetables  and  Nuts.  Mild  winters 
and  quick-producing  soils  make  it 
possible  to  market  vegetables  early  in 
the  season.  For  this  reason  wherever 
transportation  facilities  connect  locali- 
ties with  great  trade  centers  vegetables 
are  a  profitable  crop,  and  market  gar- 
dening is  becoming  a  leading  industry. 
In   many  localities   the   long   growing 


season  permits  the  raising  of  two  crops  of  veg- 
etables from  the  same  land.  Irish  potatoes 
are  grown  extensively  in  the  valleys  of  the 
Arkansas,  White,  and  Ouachita.  The  value 
of  the  crop  in  1906  exceeded  $1,116,000. 
Sebastian  County  leads  all  others  in  produc- 
tion of  potatoes,  marketing  each  year  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  million  bushels.  The 
sweet  potato  flourishes  everywhere  and  is 
planted  on  every  farm  and  in  every  garden. 
Jefferson  County  with  a  crop  of  nearly  55,000 
bushels  has  the  largest  yield.  In  the  plateau 
sections  of  the  state  increasing  areas  are  de- 
voted to  onions  and  cabbage,  both  of  which 
are  exceedingly  profitable  crops. 

The  sandy  soils 
of  the  state  offer 
ideal  conditions  for 
the  growth  of  the 
peanut,  which  may 
be  classed  among 
the  minor  crops  and 
steadily  grows  in. 
favor.  It  affords 
excellent  food  for- 
hogs.  The  pecan, 
black  walnut,  fil- 
bert, and  hazelnut 
flourish  and  yield 
large  quantities  of 
nuts.     English  wal- 


it  products  fcr  square  mile. 


nuts  are  grown  in 
some  localities. 


Fig. 


30.     Picking  strawberries  near  Austin,  Lonoke  County. 
Fruits  are  grown  extensively  in  this  county  and 
large  sliipmcnts  made  each  year. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig. 


ii.     Scene  on   a  fine   farin   in   Prairie   County   near   Hazen. 
raising  has  become  a  leading  industry  of  this  county. 


Stocii 


Manufacturing.  While  farming  has  always 
been  the  chief  occupation  of  the  people,  in 
recent  years  much  has  been  done  toward  the 
development  of 
manufacturing; 
(Fig.  40),  because 
of  the  favoring 
natural  conditions. 
Railroads  are  grad- 
ually being  extend- 
ed to  reach  every 
section  and  in  pro- 
portion to  its  area 
no  state  in  the 
Union  has  more 
navigable  water 
ways,  while  coal  in 
abundance  is  found 
within  its  borders. 


Fig.  32.     ,4   poultry  farm  near  Fayctteville,  Washington    County. 


In  1900,  Arkansas  had  about 
5,000  manufacturing  establish- 
ments, with  a  combined  capital 
of  $36,000,000.  In  the  same 
year  the  value  of  the  output 
of  these  plants  was  about 
$45,000,000,  while  the  wages 
paid  to  the  employees  amounted 
to  $2,500,000  per  year. 

Arkansas  ranks  third  among 
the  states  in  the  ginning  of  cot- 
ton. (Figs.  36  and  38.)  With 
the  exception  of  the  lumber  industry  and  the 
ginning  of  cotton,  manufacturing  is  almost 
wholly  confined  to  the  five  principal  cities 

of  the  state. 

By  far  the  most 
important  manu- 
facturing industry 
in  Arkansas  is  the 
turning  out  of 
lumber  (Figs.  35 
and  42  )  and  tim- 
ber products.  The 
saw  and  lumber 
mills  of  the  state 
represent  a  total 
investment  of 
S2  1 ,000,000  and 
give  employment 
to  16,000  men,  the 


Man\^  varieties  of  hard  woods  exist  in 
various  parts  of  the  state,  and  fine  cotton  is 
grown  in  large  quantities.  Therefore,  with 
good  shipping  facilities  and  abundant  fuel 
and  raw  material  near  at  hand,  Arkansas 
offers  a  wide  and  inviting  field  for  the  manu- 
facture of  wooden  ware  of  all  kinds  and  of 
cotton  fabrics.  Cotton  factories  have  been 
established  at  Mammoth  Spring,  Arkadel- 
phia,  Monticello,  and  several  other  points  in 
the  state  and  a  large  and  flourishing  factory 
for  the  making  of  wooden  ware  is  in  opera- 
tion at  Helena.  At  Fort  Smith  furniture 
and  wagons  are  manufactured  extensively. 


value  of  the  timber  products  (Fig.  34)  reach- 
ing   annually    not    less    than     $25,000,000. 


Fig.  33. 


Arkansas  Chester  wtiite  hogs  raised 
near  Hot  Springs. 


i6 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKxVNSAS 


The  stand  of  pine 
in  Arkansas  is  es- 
timated to  be  more 
than  forty-one  bil- 
Hon  feet,  of  which 
four  bilHon  feet  are 
owned  by  lumber- 
men, and  in  the 
yellow  pine  section 
are  located  some 
of  the  largest  saw- 
mills in  the  world. 
In  the  alluvial 
sections  are  found 
large  areas  covered 
with  cypress  which 
IS  being  manufac- 
tured into  shingles 


Fig.  34.    The  value  of  lumber  and  timber  products  per  square 


and  lumber  Arkansas  timber  lands  of  all 
•varieties  are  rapidly  advancing  in  value,  due 
to  the  depletion  of  the  forests  in  the  older 
states  and  to  the  constantly  increasing 
demand  for  lumber  of  every  sort.  There  are 
fifty  establishments  engaged  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  sash,  doors,  blinds,  and  similar  pro- 
ducts. (Fig.  39.)  These  industrial  plants  em- 
ploy large  numbers  of  wage  earners  and  yearly 
turn  out  prod- 
u  c  t  s  worth 
very  nearly 
$3,000,000. 

Second  in  im- 
portance to  the 
lumber  in- 
dustry stands 
flour  and  grist 
milling.  In 
recent  years 
many  factories 
for  the  manu- 
facture of  cot- 
ton-seed oil  and 
meal  have  been 
opened  in  Ar- 
kansas.     The 


Fig.  35- 


annual  product  of 
these  mills  is  esti- 
mated to  be  worth 
more  than  $3,000,- 
000,  and  they  fur- 
nish employment 
to  large  numbers  of 
wage  earners.  Af- 
ter the  removal  of 
the  fiber,  the  cotton 
seed  is  subjected 
to  pressure  and 
yields  a  large 
amount  of  yellow 
oil  closely  resem- 
bling olive  oil, 
for  which  it  is  fre- 
quently used  as  a 
substitute.  Cotton-seed  oil  is  also  used  as  a 
substitute  for  butter  and  lard  and  in  many 
other  ways.  After  the  extraction  of  the  oil, 
the  residue,  called  cotton-cake  or  meal,  is 
used  as  food  for  cattle  and  as  a  fertilizer. 
In  most  mills  the  hulls  are  removed  before 
the  oil  is  expressed,  and  these  are  made  into 
bales  and  sold  as  food  for  cattle.  (Fig.  37.) 
Arkansas   has   twenty- one   shops   for   the 

building  of 
cars  and  for 
general  shop 
construction 
and  railroad 
repairs.  These 
shops  give 
employment 
to  large  num- 
bers of  men 
and  have  an 
annual  pay  roll 
of  more-  than  a 
million  dollars. 
Large  quan- 
titie  sof  mussel 
and  clam  shells 
have  been  ob- 


A  great  lumber  yard  at  Fort  Smjtk.     Tliis  is  one  of  the  chief 
manufacturing  centers  of  the  state. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


17 


^^^r?*.v?fe*i'9^ 


"■'  ^sft 


F'iG.  36.      \'u'm  of  a  cotton  gin.     Here  the  fiber  is  sepa- 
rated jrom  the  seed  and  cleaned. 

tained  in  the  waters  of  the  Black  and  \Miite 
rivers  and  in  Dorcheat  and  other  lakes  in 
Arkansas.  At  Devall  Blutl  (Fig.  41), 
Black  Rock,  and  at  other  points  along 
these  rivers,  establishments  have  sprung 
up  for  the  manufacture  of  pearl  but- 
tons from  the  shells.  Pottery  is  manu- 
factured in  Saline  County. 

Mineral  Resources  and  Mining.  I-lx- 
tensive  deposits  of  coal,  ranging  in 
quality  from  lignite  to  semi-anthracite, 
exist  in  Arkansas  and  the  production  ol 
coal  is  by  far  the  most  important  min- 
ing industry  in  the  state.  The  deposits 
are  widely  distributed,  the  coal  fields 
(Fig.  44  j  extending  over  an  area  of 
more  than  2,000  square  miles.  Alines  (Fig. 
43)  are   in   operation   in    Logan,    Sebastian. 


Franklin,  Johnson,  Scott,  and  Pope  coun- 
ties, and  an  excellent  brown  lignite  has  re- 
cently been  obtained  in  the  western  part  of 
Clark  County.  In  1906  the  output  of  the 
coal  mines  reached  1,875,000  tons,  and  of 
this  amount  1,096,159  tons  were  mined  in 
Sebastian  County. 

Zinc  (Fig.  45)  and  lead  are  widely  dis- 
tributed in  Baxter,  Boone,  Newton,  Marion, 
and  other  counties.  Arkansas  zinc,  because 
of  the  purity  of  the  ore,  won  the  premium  at 
the  World's  Fair  in  1903.  Zinc  is  being 
mined  in  considerable  quantities.  Natural 
gas    is   found    in  abundance    in    the    region 


Fig. 


i 

Fig.  38.     Scene  in  a  cotton  compress  lolicrc  the 
cotton  is  being  pressed  into  bales. 


Scene  at  an  oil  mill.      The  cattle  are  being  fattened  on 
the  cotton-seed  hulls  front  the  null. 

around  Fort  Smith  and  is  utilized  largely  in 
manufacturing  industries  and  for  heating 
and  lighting  jsurposes. 

Manganese  has  been  successfully  mined  in 
Independence  and  Izard  counties  and  exists 
m  Pulaski,  Montgomer}',  and  Polk  counties. 

Iron  is  found  in  many  parts  of  the  state, 
but  the  ores  are  of  low  grade,  and  because 
of  this,  and  the  distance  of  the  mines  from 
manufacturing  centers,  iron  cannot  be  mined 
with  profit.  The  most  important  deposits 
are  in  Randolph,  Sharp,  Fulton,  and  Law- 
rence counties. 

Valuable  deposits  c jf  antimony  are  found  in 
Sevier  and  Howard  counties.  It  is  a  brittle, 
silver-white  metal  used  in  alloys,  in  medicine, 
and  in  the  arts. 


i8 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  39.     ,4  stave  factory  at  Paragould. 

Novaculite  suitable  for  whetstones  and 
hones  of  the  best  quality  is  obtained  in  Gar- 
land and  adjoining  counties.  The  fine  grain 
and  great  hardness  of  the  novaculite  known 
as  "Arkansas  Stone"  renders  it  particularly 
valuable  to  engravers,  jewelers,  and  dentists. 


iSgo^ 
iSSo^ 

lSso_ 


Fig.  40.     Growth  of  ■manufacturing  indus- 
tries in  Arkansas  in  millions 
of  dollars. 


Silver  has  been  found,  in  small  quantities, 
in  Sevier,  Montgomery,  and  Pulaski  counties. 
The  pearl  fisheries  of  the  Black  and  White 
rivers  and  of  several  lakes  yield  pearls  of  fine 


Fig.  41.     .4  button  factory  at  Derail  Bluff.     Observe  the 

huge  file  of  shells  in  the  foreground  out  of 

ivhich  buttons  have  been  cut. 


quality,  and  recently  diamonds  have  been 
discovered  in  Pike  County. 

Bauxite  (Fig.  47),  the  principal  source  of 
aluminium,  is  found  in  large  quantities  in 
Saline  and  Pulaski  counties,  and  asphalt 
mines  are  in  successful  operation  in  Pike 
County. 

Among  Arkansas  mineral  resources  build- 
ing   stones    are   especially   important.     The 


Fig.  42.     Rafting  logs  down  Black  River  to  the  mills. 

state  contains  immense  deposits  of  the  finest 
granite.  Blue  and  gray  granite  of  superior 
quality,  quarried  in  Pulaski  County  (Fig.  48), 
has  been  used  in  the  construction  of  many 
prominent  buildings.  In  our  state  the  mar- 
ble beds  embrace  an  area  of  about  2,500 
square  miles.  These  beds  lie  in  the  Upper 
White  River  Valley  iia  a  region  bounded  on 
the  south  by  the  Boston  ilountains  and  on 
the  east  by  the  flood  plains  of  the  Black  River. 
The  area  in  which  marble  occurs  includes 
Marion,  Boone,  Benton,  and  parts  of  Wash- 
ington, Newton,  Searcy,  Stone,  Izard,  and 
Baxter  counties.  In  1836  a  block  of  marble 
weighing  several  tons  A\'as  taken  from  Marble 
City,  Newton  County,  to  be  used  in  ■.  the 
Washington  Monument.  This  is  supposed  to 
be  one  of  the  first  pieces  of  marble  shipped 
out  of  the  state.  There  has  been  a  steady 
development  of  the  marble  industry,  al- 
tliough  as  yet  the  product  is  used  chiefly 
for  local  building  purposes. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


19 


Fig.  43.     Scene  at  a  coal  mine  in  Hartford,  Sebastian 
County.     A  large  quantity  oj  coal  is  mined  here. 

Limestone  of  superior  quality  is  found  in 
Independence  County.  It  is  known  as  the 
Batesville  Stone,  and  is,  perhaps,  the  best 
limestone  for  building  purposes  in  the  state. 
Limestone  from  these  quarries  was  used  in 
the  construction  of  the  new  State  Capitol. 
Limestone,  not  susceptible  of  a  fine  polish, 
is  found  in  many  other  localities  and  is  com- 
monly used  in  the  construction  of  founda- 
tions, walls,  abutments,  piers,  sidewalks, 
curbings,  sewer  caps,  and  stone  trimmings. 
It  is  not  suitable  for  street  paving  as  it  will 
not  stand  the  wear  of  heavy  vehicles,  but  it 
has  been  used  with 
great  success  as  a 
foundation  for 
macadam  roads. 
Many  of  the  cul- 
verts and  bridge 
piers  in  the  state 
are  built  of  Arkan- 
sas limestone. 

Slate,  of  various 
colors  and  quali- 
ties, is  found  in 
large  quantities  in 
Polk  County. 

Lime  is  produced 
by  burning  lime- 
stone or  marble  in 


furnaces  or  kilns.  The  manufacture  of  lime 
is  developing  steadily  in  Arkansas  and,  with 
its  abundance  of  excellent  limestone  (Fig. 
46),  the  Upper  White  River  Valley  should  be 
able  to  supply  the  entire  southern  section  of 
our  country  with  lime.  Lime  kilns  have 
been  operated  successfully  in  Independence, 
Sharp,  Boone,  Carroll,  Benton,  and  Washing- 


■ 

f- 

^ 

■Hyi 

1 

i^^^isl 

m 

HHP^^  bPr!  ^ ,  i 

i^jSa^HflMi 

oi 

^1:^ 

^^^ntflH 

mm 

i 

1^==^ 

^^9^^1 

Fig. 


45-     .4    flourishing  zinc   mine  in   Boone  County. 
This  ties  in  the  center  of  the  great  zinc  district. 


ton  counties,  and  lime  has  also  been  manu- 
factured in  Pulaski,  Garland,  and  Sevier 
counties. 

Chalk  is  a  soft  white  rock,  consisting  almost 
entirely  of  carbonate  of  lime  in  a  slightly  con- 

solidated  state. 
The  school  cray- 
on, ordinarily 
known  as  chalk,  is 
usually  made  of 
plaster  of  Paris  and 
should  not  be  con- 
fused with  true 
chalk.  Extensive 
beds  of  chalk  are 
found  in  Little 
River  County,  and 
an  area  of  about 
goo  acres  is  ex- 
posed in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  Rocky 


Fig.  44.    The  location  of  the  leading  minerals  of  Arkansas. 


Comfort.      This 


20 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


™.,..J 

i 

^98M3!^^M^KB£r'^'^^^SlSI^»^>^I^^Hi^^^OII^^^I 

■pj 

HJiSBLM^a^-'V'^S^^f^^B^^^^^^^H 

^ 

Fig.  46.     A  ledge  of  St.  Joe  limestone.     Limestones  for 

building  and  for  the  nianufaclnre  of  lime  are 

widely  distributed  in  Arkansas. 

chalk  bed  is  about  500  feet  in  thickness  and 
is  highly  valuable.  It  is  the  only  limestone 
of  its  kind  and  quality  in  the  United  States, 
and  in  composition  resembles  closely  the 
chalk  of  England  AA^hich  has  so  long  been 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  the  famous  Port- 
land cement.  (Fig.  69.)  At  White  Cliffs,  in 
this  county,  a  bluff  of  pure  white  chalk  more 
than  100  feet  in  height  is  exposed  along  the 
edge  of  Red  River.  (Fig.  49.)  This  is  a  rem- 
nant of  one  of  the  most  beautiful  chalk  for- 
mations in  North  America.  Inasmuch  as 
lime  is  absolutely  necessary  to  the  devel- 
opment of  all 
plants,  chalk 
is  extremely 
valuable  as  a 
means  of  ren- 
dering the  soil 
more  fertile 
and  productive. 
Large  areas  are 
underlaid  with 
fire,  brick,  and 
pottery  clays 
and  there  are 
extensive  de- 
posits of  white 
soapstone  and 

fuller's    earth.  Large  deposits  of  this  valuable 


Mineral  Springs.  ^Mineral  waters  exist  in 
more  than  half  of  the  counties  of  Arkansas. 
Their  waters  are  often  used  for  medicinal 
purposes  and  hence  numerous  health  resorts 
have  developed  in  the  state.  While  most  of 
these  springs  contain  minerals  that  are  help- 


FiG.  48.     Scene  at  a  granite  quarry  in  Pulaski  County, 

near  Little  Rock.      Inexhaustible  quantities  of 

granite  lie  all  about  this  city. 

ful  in  the  treatment  of  various  diseases,  the 
waters  of  some  are  harmful.  Such  a  spring 
is  found  on  the  Dry^  Fork  of  King  River  in 
Carroll  County,  and  is  locally  known  as 
Poison  Spring,  because  people  and  animals 
that  drink  of  its  waters  are  made  ill. 

Sulphur  wa- 
ters are  found 
in  Benton,  Cle- 
burne, Dallas, 
Drew,  Garland, 
Howard,  Mont- 
gomery, Stone, 
Newton,  Yell, 
a  n  d  W  h  i  t  e 
counties;  alum 
waters  in  Hot 
Springs,  Drew, 
and  Scott  coun- 
ties, and  cha- 
lybeate waters 
in  Cleburne  and 
^Montgomery 


■i^^^. 


i:ni!c   Lit    Hou  Mil       .    ■' 
ore  arc  found  in  this  locality. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


21 


counties,  while  lithia 
springs  of  some  note 
are  found  in  Baxter 
and  Hempstead  coun- 
ties. 

Eureka  Sprin.ejs, 
Carroll  County,  situ- 
ated in  a  mountain- 
ous section  of  great 
scenic  beauty,  are  the 
best  known  springs 
of  north  Arkansas. 
Around  these  spring.s 
has  grown  up  one  of 
the  most  jDopular  and 
attractive  health  and 
pleasure  resorts  in  the 
state.  Thousands  o*" 
health-seekers  from 
all  parts  of  the  United 
States  visit  this  place 
annually.  For  a  few  hours  after  heavy  rains 
the  flow  increases  slightly  and  the  waters 
contain  sediment,  but  at  all  other  times  these 
waters  are  noted  for  their  purity  and  clear- 
ness. The  waters  of  Hot  Springs  (Fig.  64), 
Garland  County,  have  long  been  widely  and 
favorably  known.  The  Aborigines  were  well 
acquainted  with  their  wonderful  curative 
properties  and 
these  springs, 
it  is  said,  were 
the  fabled 
"Fountain  of 
Youth" sought 
by  Ponce  de 
Leon.  It  has 
been  estimated 
that  they  num- 
ber from  fifty 
to  seventy. 
The  waters  are 
pure,  colorless, 
tasteless,  and 
without    odor, 


Fig.  4q.    ,1  tlulk  I'l'i/i  Lit  While  Cliffs  Landing.   Xcar  by 

these  deposits  great  works  have  been  built  for  the 

manufacture  of  Portland  cement. 


Fig. 50  .     A  view  of  Siloani  Springs.     One  of  th, 
localities  in  the  Ozark  Plateau. 


and  the  presence  of 
free  carbonic  acid 
causes  them  to  sparkle 
and  also  makes  them 
pleasant  to  drink. 
They  are,  however, 
used  chiefly  for  bath- 
ing purposes.  The 
average  temperature 
of  the  waters  is  about 
142  degrees  Fahren- 
heit. This  very  high 
temperature  has  been 
attributed  to  several 
causes  but,  according 
to  the  eminent  geol- 
ogist. Dr.  John  C. 
Branner,  is  mostly  due 
to  the  waters  coming 
in  contact  with  masses 
of  hot  rocks,  the  cool 
edges  of  which  may  or  may  not  be  exposed 
at  the  surface.  The  United  States  Govern- 
ment has  reserved  the  land  surrounding  the 
principal  springs,  and  a  large  army  and  navy 
hospital  is  located  near  by.  Thousands  of 
people  annually  visit  the  Hot  Springs  for  the 
benefit  derived  from  the  waters.  It  is  also  a 
popular  winter  resort  f<)r  large  numbers  of  \-is- 

itors  because 
of  its  delight- 
ful climate  and 
its  superior 
hotel  accom- 
modations. 

In  Garland 
County  about 
seven  miles 
southeast  of 
the  city  of  Hot 
Springs  are  the 
Potash  Sul- 
phur Springs. 
Picturesque 
scenery,    cura- 


iircsque 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  51.     .4  train  of  cars  being  loaded  u-ith  watermelons 
from  Greene  County. 

tivc  waters,  and  excellent  accommodations 
have  made  this  point  a  popular  resort  alike 
for  pleasure  or  health  seekers.  The  water 
is  used  chiefly  for  drinking  purposes,  and 
much  of  it  is  bottled  and  shipped  to  all  parts 
of  the  country  for  medicinal  uses. 

Transportation.  In  early  days  the  Missis- 
sippi and  Arkansas  rivers  were  the  chief 
highways  of  travel  and  trade.  While  the 
railroads,  which  have  been  so  large  a  factor 
in  the  development  of  the  state,  now  afford 
a  much  more  efficient  means  of  transporta- 
tion, river  traffic  (Fig.  52)  is  still  important. 

The  first  railroad  in  the  state  was  built 
in  1856.  This  road,  known  as  the  Little 
Rock  &  Memphis,  now  forms  a  part  of  the 
Choctaw,  Oklahoma  &  Gulf  division  of  the 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  &:  Pacific  Railway. 
It  extended  from  Memphis  to  Madison  and 
from  Devall  Bluff  to  Little  Rock.  Passen- 
gers were  transferred  across  the  unfinished 
gap  from  Devall  Bluff  to  Madison  either  by 
stage  or  by  boat  down  the  White  River  (Fig.  8) 
and  up  the  Mississippi.  In  1 87  2  the  St.  Louis, 
Iron  ^Mountain  &  Southern  road  was  com- 
pleted from  St.  Louis  to  Little  Rock,  and  in 
1874  was  extended  to  Texarkana.  This  road 
and  the  Memphis  &  Little  Rock  Railroad 
were  aided  by  land  grants  amounting  to  more 
than  2,600,000  acres  of  land. 


In  recent  years  railroad  building  has  made 
rapid  progress,  and  there  are  now  more  than 
4,300  miles  of  road  in  operation  in  the  state, 
an  average  of  about  8.4  miles  of  railroad  for 
every  100  square  miles  of  area. 

The  leading  railroads  of  the  state  are  the 
St.  Louis,  Iron  Mountain  &  Southern,  the 
Chicago,  Rock  Island  &  Pacific,  and  the  St. 
Louis  Southwestern.  These  three  roads 
together  have  nearly  2,700  miles  of  track, 
or  almost  three-fifths  of  the  total  railroad 
mileage  of  the  state. 

The  State  Government.  The  state  of 
Arkansas  is  divided  into  seventy-five  coun- 
ties, each  of  which  is  again  divided  into 
political  townships.  The  township  officers 
are  justices  of  the  peace  and  a  constable. 
The  county  officers  are  judge,  sheriff,  clerk, 
treasurer,  coroner,  assessor,  and  surveyor. 
The  state  officers  are  Governor,  Secretary  of 
State,  Attorney-general,  Treasurer,  Auditor, 
Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction,  Land 
Commissioner,  and  Commissioner  of  Mines, 
Manufactures,  and  Agriculture.  Township, 
county,  and  state  officers  are  elected  by  the 
people  biennially. 

The  present  constitution  was  adopted  in 
187;.  To  amend  it  requires  a  two-thirds 
vote  in  each  House  and  a  majority  of  the 
votes  cast  at  the  general  election  following 
the  session  of  the  legislature  v\-hich  passed 
the   resolution   submitting   the   amendment. 


111    »"j 


Fig.  5; 


Arkansas  wheat  on  a  Mississippi  River  boat 
on  its  way  to  the  Gulj. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


The  legislature  consists  of  a  Senate  of 
thirty-five  members,  elected  for  four  years, 
about  one-half  of  thrm  being  elected  every 
two  years,  and  a  House  oi  Representatives  of 
one  hundred  members,  elected  for  two  years. 
The  sessions  begin  at  the  Capitol  (Fig.  58) 
in  Little  Rock  the  second  Monday  in  January 
of  odd-numbered  years. 

The  Governor  is  the  chief  executive  officer 
of  the  state  and  is  Commander  of  tlie  State 
Militia.     The  chief  duty  of  the  Governor  is 
to  see  that  the  laws  of  the  state  are  enforced. 
He  is  a  member  of  the  Penitentiary  Board, 
the  Board  of  Trustees  of  the  State  University, 
and   the   Board  of 
Railway  Assessors. 
He  has  the  power 
to  veto  all  legisla- 
tive bills,  to  grant 
pardons,  and  to  fill 
by  appointment 
vacancies   in  state 
and  county  offices. 

The  Secretary'  of 
State  keeps  a  rec- 
ord of  the  official 
Acts  of  the  Gov- 
ernor and  prepares 
for  publication  the 
Acts  of  the  legisla- 
ture.     He    is    also 

Custodian    of    the  ^"'-  ^-'-      'f'^' ^'o"Srcss,oual 

State  House  and  grounds,  and  Librarian  for 
the  state. 

The  Auditor  is  the  general  accountant  for 
the  state,  and  keeps  all  books,  vouchers,  and 
papers  relating  to  the  contracts  of  the  state. 

The  Treasurer  receives  and  keeps  all 
moneys  of  the  state,  and  disburses  the  same 
on  warrants  drawn  upon  the  Treasurer  by 
the  Auditor. 

The  Attorney-general  defends  the  interests 
of  the  state  in  matters  before  the  Supreme 
Court,  and  it  is  also  his  duty  to  give  his 
opinion  on  legal  miatters  when  called  upon 


to  do  so  by  any  of  the  various  officers  of  the 
state  or  by  the  legislature. 

The  Land  Commissioner  has  control  over 
the  state  lands  and  disposes  of  them  according 
to  law. 

The  Superintendent  of  Public  Instruction 
has  charge  of  all  busines.j  relating  to  the  free 
common  schools. 

The  Commissioner  of  Mines,  Manufac- 
tures, and  Agriculture  collects  and  sends  out 
information  concerning  the  development  of 
mining  industries,  the  encouragement  of 
manufacturing  enterprises,  and  the  best 
methods  for  the  cultivation  of  Arkansas  soils. 

The  judicial 
department  of  the 
state  includes  the 
Supreme  Court, 
Circuit  courts, 
Chancery  judges, 
County  and  Pro- 
bate courts,  and 
Township  justice 
courts. 

The  Supreme 
Court  of  Arkansas 
consists  of  a  Chief 
Justice  and  four 
Associate  justices. 
These  judges   are 

elected  for  a  term 
J.stncts  of  Arkansas.  igoT^  ^f     g^g^^     ^,^^^^ 

The  state  is  divided  into  seventeen  judicial 
districts,  in  each  of  which  a  Circuit  Judge 
and  a  Prosecuting  Attorney  are  elected.  The 
term  of  the  Circuit  Judge  is  four  years;  the 
term  of  the  Prosecuting  Attorney  is  two  years. 
There  are  eleven  Chancery  districts  in  the 
state,  in  each  of  which  a  chancellor  is  elected 
for  a  term  of  four  years.  All  suits  in  equity 
and  divorce  suits  are  tried  in  the  Chancery 
courts.  Minor  offences  or  misdemeanors  are 
tried  before  justices  of  the  peace  in  the  justice 
courts. 

The  law-making  power  in  cities  and  incor- 


24 


THE   GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


porated  towns  is 
vested  in  the  Coun- 
cil, composed  of  the 
Mayor  and  Alder- 
men. In  cities  of 
the  first  class  (those 
h  a  \'  i  n  g  5,000  o  r 
more  inhabitants) 
police  judges  pre- 
side over  the  city 
courts,  in  cities  of 
the  second  class 
(those  with  a  popu- 
lation of  2,500)  and 
other  incorporated 
places.  Mayors  serve 
as  judges. 

Arkansas  has  two 


The  leading  educational  institutions  of  Arkansas. 


gressional  district, 
appointed  by  the 
Governor  of  the 
state.  This  board 
has  entire  control  of 
the  following  state 
institutions:  The 
Deaf-Mute  Insti- 
tute, the  Arkansas 
School  for  the 
Blind,  and  the  Ar- 
kansas Hospital  for 
Nervous  Diseases. 
Persons  admitted 
to  these  institutions 
are  cared  for  wholly 
at  the  expense  of 
the  state. 


Senators  and  seven  Representatives  in  the 
National  Congress.    (Fig.  53.) 

State  Charities  and  Penal  Institutions. 
The  State  Penitentian,'  is  located  at  Little 
Rock,  but  most  of  the  convicts  are  employed 
upon  a  state  farm  on  the  Arkansas  River 
about  thirty  miles  below  Little  Rock.  The 
Legislature  of  1904  made  provision  for  a 
Reform  School  for  Juvenile  Offenders.  This 
school  has  been  established  at  Little  Rock. 

Arkansas  has  made  generous  pro^'ision  for 
her  unfortunate.  All  of  the  state  charities 
are  located  in  the  city  of  Little  Rock  and  are 
under  the  control  of  a  board  composed  of  the 
State  Treasurer,  who  is  ex-officio  chairman, 
and  seven  other  members,  one  from  each  con- 


A  home  for  disabled  Confederate  soldiers 
under  state  control  is  located  at  Sweet  Home, 
six  miles  from  the  city  of  Little  Rock.  It  is 
managed  by  a  board  of  five  persons  appointed 
by  the  Gn^-ernor. 

Education.  Liberal  provision  was  made 
for  public  education  \vhen  Arkansas  became 
a  state,  but  the  public  school  system  was  not 
well  organized  until  after  the  Civil  War.  The 
Constitutional  Convention  of  1874  provided 
for  a  state  tax  of  not  more  than  two  mills 
and  a  district  tax  and  adopted  the  following 
declaration  with  reference  to  free  education: 

"Intelligence  and  virtue  being  the  safe- 
guards of  liberty  and  government,  the  state 
shall  ever  maintain  a  general,  suitable,  and 


THE  LEADING  EDUCATIONAL  INSTITUTIONS  OF  ARKANSAS 


COLLEGES   AND    UNIVERSITIES 

1  Henderson  College.  Methodist  Episcopal,  South,  Arkadelphia. 

2  Ouachita  Baptist  College.  Baptist.  Arkadelphia. 
.3  Arkansas  College,  Presbyterian.  Batesville. 

4  Arkansas  Cumberland  College.  Presbyterian.  Clarksville. 

5  Central  College,  Baptist,  Conway. 

6  Hendrix  College.  Methodist  Episcopal.  South,  Conway. 

7  University  of  Arkansas,  State,  Fayetteville. 

8  Arkansas  Baptist  College.  Baptist,  Little  Rock. 

9  Maddox  Seminary.  Non-sectarian,  Little  Rock. 

10  Philander  Smith  College,  Methodist  Episcopal,  Little  Rock. 

11  Galloway  Female  College,   Non-sectarian,  Searcy. 


1 2  Searcy    Female    Institute,    Non-sectarian,    Searcy. 
1,3  Arkansas     Conference     College,     Methodist    Episcopal,     Siloant 
Springs. 

PUBLIC   NORMAL   SCHOOLS 

14  State    Normal    School,    Conway. 

15  Normal    Department,    University   of    Arkansas,    Fayetteville. 

16  Branch    Normal    College,    Pine    Bluff. 

PRIVATE    NORMAL   AND   TRAINING   SCHOOLS 

17  Clary    Training    School,    Fordyce. 

iS  Pea    Ridge    Masonic    College,    Pea    Ridge. 

10  Pine    Bluff    Presbyterian    Training    School,    Warren. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


25 


efficient  system  of  free  schools  open  to  all 
persons  in  the  state  between  the  ages  of  six 
and  twenty-one  years."  There  is  a  state  tax 
of  three  and  a  local  tax  of  seven  mills  for 
school  purposes,  and  in  addition  a  permanent 
school  fund  of  over  a  million  dollars  invested 
in  state  bonds,  bearing  3  per  cent  per  annum. 
The  educational  system  of  the  state  is 
organized  under  a  State  Superintendent  of 
Public  Instruction,  County  Examiners,  and 
boards  of  directors  for  each  school  district. 
There  were,  in  1907,  533,843  children  of  school 


IQOO 

iSqo 

jS^o-- 

1S20 


1^.;..' 


Fig.   55.     The   population    in    hun- 
dreds of  thousands  and  the  density 
of  population  per  scpiare  mile 
at  each  Federal  census. 


age;  of  these  340,185  were  enrolled  in  the 
schools,  in  charge  of  8,113  teachers. 

The  University  of  Arkansas  (Fig.  61),  sit- 
uated in  Fayetteville,  was  organized  in  1872. 
It  is  also  the  Agricultural  and  Mechanical 
College  of  the  state,  established  under  the 
grant  of  public  lands  made  by  Congress  in 
1862  for  this  purpose.  The  literary,  scien- 
tific, and  engineering  departments  are  located 
at  Fayetteville  and  have  an  enrollment  of 
about  1,200  students,  with  nearly  sixty  pro- 
fessors and  instructors.  There  are  fourteen 
buildings  upon  the  campus  and  the  experi- 
ment station  and  farm  adjoin  the  Universitv 
grounds.  The  iledical  School  and  the  Law 
School,  departments  of  the  University  of 
Arkansas,  are  located  at  Little  Rock,  and 
the  Branch  Normal  College  at  Pine  Bluff 
is  maintained  for  the  education  of  colored 
youth.  The  total  enrollment  of  all  the 
branches  of  the  University  is  about   1,700. 

The  Arkansas  Normal  School  was  estab- 
lished at  Conway  in  1908,  for  the  education  of 


teachers  for  the  public  schools.  There  is  also 
a  Department  of  Pedagogy  in  the  State 
University.  In  addition  to  the  state  schools 
there  are  many  excellent  denominational 
institutions  for  higher  education,  and  private 
schools  and  academies  of  high  grade.  (Fig.  54.) 

Throughout  the  state  separate  schools  are 
provided  for  white  children  and  for  negroes. 
In  most  large  towns  and  in  all  cities  ex- 
cellent public  high  schools   are  maintained. 

Population  and  Rank.  In  1900  Arkansas 
had  1,311,000  inhabitants.  With  this  pop- 
ulation it  ranked  twenty-fifth  among  the 
states,  varying  but  little  in  its  position  since 
1820  when  it  stood  twenty-sixth.  South 
Carolina  with  1,340,316  and  Louisiana  with 
1,381,625  people  stood  just  ahead  of  it.  The 
density  of  population  was  24.7  per  square 
mile  (Fig.  55),  which  was  a  little  more  than 
that  of  Maine,  and  a  little  less  than  that  of 
the  country  as  a  whole.     There  are  less  than 


Per  ant 

Totctl  J^cJ'iilaticu 

A'ative  to  state 

Tennessee 

^Ussissippi 

Missouri . 

j-tlal'atita 

Gcoigia 

Illinois 

A't)itiicky 

A'ortll  Carolina h 

All  ether  states^  _ 


Fig.  56.     The  state  of  birth  of  the 

native-horn  population  and  the 

percentage  of  persons  from 

each  specified  state  living 

in  Arkansas.  Federal 

census  of  igoo. 


15,000  foreign-born  inhabitants  in  Arkansas, 
more  than  98  per  cent  of  the  people  being 
native  born  and  nearly  two-thirds  of  these 
native  to  the  state.  (Fig.  56.)  In  the  dis- 
tribution of  the  rural  and  urban  population 
the  state  is  also  in  marked  contrast  with  the 
country  as  a  whole,  for  the  population  of  the 
country  and  of  the  farms  continues  to  in- 
crease more  rapidly  than  that  of  the  cities 
and  towns.  In  1900  there  were  only  eight 
incorporated  places  in  the  state  with  more 
than  4,000  inhabitants.     (Fig.  57.) 


26 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


//.     THE  GROWTH  AND  DEVELOP- 
MENT OF  CITIES  AND  TOWNS. 

Little  Rock  and  Towns  of  the  Upper  Arkansas 
Valley.  Large  areas  of  the  most  fertile  fruit 
and  farming  lands  in  the  state  and  the  richest 
coal  fields  west  of  the  Mississippi  lie  in  the  valley 
of  the  Arkansas.  With  the  development  of 
these  great  natural  resources  it  followed  that 
all  up  and  down  the 
valley  towns  sprung 
up  and  grew  and 
flourished  as  trade 
centers. 

Little  Rock,  our 
capital  and  greatest 
city,  lies  nearly  in 
the  center  of  the  val- 
lev,  as  it  does  in  the 
center  of  the  state. 
Standing  on  a  rug- 
ged bluff  overlook- 
ing the  river  fifty 
feet  below,  the  citv 
has  a  commanding 
position.  It  now 
covers  an  area  of 
about  twelve  square 
miles  (Fig.  59),  is 
well  and  handsomely  built,  and 
business    district    are    found    many 


The  JiitributioH  of 
census 


within    the 
substantial 

structures  and  attractive  stores,  while  in  every 
direction  extend  miles  of  well-paved  streets  and 


concrete  sidewalks, 
mercial  and  manu- 
facturing center  of 
the  state.  Eight 
railroads  enter  the 
city  and  these,  with 
numerous  steam- 
boats that  ply  upon 
the  river,  afford  ex- 
cellent transporta- 
tion facilities  for  a 
large  and  growing 
trade  in  cotton, 
other  farm  prod- 
ucts, and  manufac- 
tured goods.  Among 


Little    Rock    is    the    com- 


the  flourishing  industrial  plants  of  the  city  are 
included  some  of  the  largest  cotton  compresses 
in  the  country  and  extensive  manufactories  for 
cotton  goods,  furniture,  lumber,  wagons,  and 
iron  wares.  Little  Rock  is  the  seat  of  a  num- 
ber of  state  institutions.  The  State  Capitol 
(Fig.  58),  which  has  a  striking  situation  on  an 
elevated  plateau,  is  a  magnificent  building.  The 
city  has  a  fine  system  of  public  schools,  and  is  a 

prominent  edu- 
cational center. 
Among  the  leading 
private  schools 
found  here  are  the 
Arkansas  Military 
Academy  and  Mad- 
dox  Seminary.  With 
an  unrivaled  loca- 
tion, handsome 
homes  surrounded 
by  beautiful,  well- 
kept  grounds,  and 
with  excellent  street 
railway  service, 
splendid  schools,  and 
attractive  parks  and 
drives.  Little  Rock 
is  a  delightful  resi- 
dential city.  It  is 
somewhat  widely  known  as  the  "City  of  Roses", 
because  of  the  profusion  in  which  this  flower  is 
found  in  all  parts  of  the  city. 

Oil  the  north  side  of  the  river  and  directly 
opposite  Little  Rock  is  the  progressive  town  of 

Argciita,  which  has 
made  an  astonish- 
ing growth  in  recent 
years.  Here  are 
large  railroad  shops 
employing  many 
men.  Just  outside 
the  c  i  t  \- ,  on  the 
famous  "Big  Rock," 
is  Fort  Logan  H. 
Roots,  where  a 
garrison  of  United 
States  soldiers  is 
stationed.  North- 
west of  Argenta, 


urban  population  in  Arkansas, 
of  I  poo. 


The  State  Capitoi  at  Little  Rock. 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


THE     CITY 

OF 

LITTLE    ROCK 

AND  VICINITY 

Scale 


.Sg  statute  Miles  to  one  inch 


Fig.  sq.     A  map  of  Little  Rock. 


and  thirty  miles  from  Little  Rock,  is  Cotrway, 
a  growing  railroad  town  with  a  large  trade  in 
cotton  and  other  farm  products;  it  has  good 
graded,  and  excellent  private  schools.  Farther 
up  the  valley,  about  fifty  miles  from  Little  Rock, 
is  Morrilltoii,  the  county  seat  of  Conway  County, 
with  a  cotton-seed  oil  mill  and  a  woolen  factory; 
its  location  gives  it  a  large  trade  from  both  sides 
of  the  river,  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  important 
cotton  markets  in  the  state. 

Still  farther  up  the  vallev,  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  river,  are  Kiisscllvillc  and  DaniaiicUc. 
Russellville,  near  the  north  bank  of  the  stream, 
lies  in  a  fertile  farming  section  underlaid  with 
coal,  and  has  a  large  and  growing  trade  in  cotton. 
small  fruits,  and  coal.     Dardanelle,  Yell  Countv, 


on  the  south  shore  of  the  Arkansas  and  four 
miles  south  of  Russellville,  is  the  trade  center 
for  a  district  that  yields  large  crops  of  cotton 
and  cereals.  The  Arkansas  River  is  crossed  at 
this  point  by  the  only  pontoon  bridge  in  the 
state.  Six  miles  west  of  Dardanelle  is  Mount 
Ncho,  a  delightful  health  resort,  and  fourteen 
miles  southwest  is  Danville,  the  county  seat  of 
the  southern,  as  Dardanelle  is  of  the  northern 
division  of  Yell  County.  North  of  the  river  in 
the  county  of  Johnson  is  Clarksvillc,  the  thriv- 
ing county  seat  of  that  county,  where  are  cotton 
gins,  saw  and  flouring  mills,  a  canning  factory, 
and  foundry  and  machine  shops;  it  is  a  rail- 
way town  and  ships  increasing  quantities  of 
cotton,  fruits,  and  other  farm  products.     Clarks- 


28 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  6o.     .4  itiict  scene  in  the  wliolcsclc  district 
of  I- or:  Sitiitli. 

ville  is  the  seat  of  Arkansas  Cumberland  College. 
Fourteen  miles  beyond,  and  in  the  same  county 
as  Clarksville,  lies  Coal  Hill,  the  seat  of  flour- 
ishing coal  mines. 

We  are  now  well  within  the  section  covering 
the  coal  fields,  and  here  among  a  cluster  of  grow- 
ing towns  we  find,  south  of  the  river,  Paris,  the 
county  seat  of  Logan,  Boonevillc,  a  railroad 
division  town,  and  Magazine,  a  busy  trade 
center,  and  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Arkansas, 
Ozark,  with  various  industries  and,  with  excellent 
shipping  facilities  by  rail  and  river,  the  outlet 
for  a  region  that  vields  cotton,  fruit,  other 
farm   products,  and  coal. 

Beyond  these,  near  the  Oklahoma  border,  we 
reach  Fort  Smith,  the  second  city  in  the  state 
and  the  thriving  town  of  Van  Bnrcn.  Fort 
Smith  (Fig.  60),  the  border  city,  lies  on  the  south 
side  of  the  Arkansas  in  a  splendid  agricultural 
region,  rich  also  in  coal  and  natural  gas;  its 
position  on  the  river,  and  its  excellent  railroads 
furnish  exceptional  transportation  facilities. 
Because  of  the  advantages  of  these  conditions 
it  has  become  one  of  the  most  important  com- 
mercial and  industrial  centers  of  the  state  and  is 
destined  to  be  the  greatest  business  center  of 
the  great  Southwest.  Already  Fort  Smith  holds 
second  place  in  the  wholesale  and  jobbing 
trade  of  the  state.  In  recent  years  the  city  has 
made  an  astonishing  gain  in  population  and 
wealth.  To-day  it  has  between  25,000  and 
30,000  inhabitants,  or  double  the  number  it  had 
in  1900.  Fort  Smith  has  extensive  manufactur- 
ing interests  and  an  enormous  capital  invested 


in  the  coal  industry  of  vSebastian  County.  Here 
is  the  largest  cotton  compress  in  the  state, 
flourishing  furniture  and  wagon  factories,  flovir- 
ing  and  lumber  mills  (Fig.  35),  and  machine 
shops;  and  from  this  point  increasing  quantities 
of  coal  are  distributed  annually.  A  prominent 
railroad  center  in  one  of  the  most  fruitful  coun- 
ties of  the  state,  it  has  a  large  and  constantly 
increasing  trade  in  agricultural  products.  More 
than  5,000  carloads  of  potatoes  and  large  ship- 
ments of  vegetables,  peaches,  and  strawberries 
go  from  Fort  Smith  each  year  to  the  leading 
markets  of  the  country.  Van  Bnrcn  on  the 
north  side  of  the  Arkansas,  in  a  rich  farming 
region  famous  for  its  fruits,  is  a  growing  com- 
mercial center,  the  county  seat  and  largest 
town  of  Crawford  County,  and  the  seat  of  vari- 
ous flourishing  industries. 

The  Plateau  Towns.  In  the  region  of  the  Ozark 
Plateau  are  found  a  number  of  thriving  and 
important  towns.  Among  a  cluster  of  these 
towns,  in  the  extreme  northwest,  is  F aycttevillc , 
the  county  seat  of  Washington  County,  the  seat 
of  the  State  University  (Fig.  61),  and  the  largest 
and  most  important  town  in  northwestern 
Arkansas.  The  State  Agricultural  Experiment 
Station  is  also  located  here.  Great  quantities 
of  fruit  are  shipped  from  this  point  and  here  is 
found  the  largest  cold-storage  plant  in  the  state. 
A  splendid  climate,  pure,  cool  air  in  summer, 
beautiful  scenerv,  and  the  advantages  offered 
bv  a  vmiversitv  town  have  made  Fayetteville 
a    delightful    place   of    residence   and    a  much- 


I'lG 


61.     The  main  building,  of  the  Stale 
University,  Fayetteville. 


THE  GEUGRAIMIV  OF  ARKANSAS 


29 


frequented  summer  resort.  Northward,  about 
ten  miles,  is  Springdale,  a  great  shipping  point 
for  apples,  and  northwestward,  Siloam  Springs, 
a  bnsy  village  with  fine  mineral  springs  (Fig.  50) 
near  by,  and  the  seat  of  the  Arkansas  Conference 
College.  Directly  north  from  Springdale  lies 
Rogers,  a  growing  business  town,  with  manu- 
factures of  flour  and  lumber,  a  large  cold- 
storage  plant  and  fruit-evaporating  works;  it 
ships  large  quantities  of  apples  and  strawberries. 
A  few  miles  northwest  of  Rogers  is  Bentouvillc , 
the  county  seat  of  Benton  County,  with  a  large 
trade  in  apples  and  one  of  the  largest  fruit 
distilleries  in  the  world.  To  the  east,  in  Carroll 
County,  in  a  situation  of  great  natural  beauty, 
is  Eureka  Springs  (Fig.  62),  one  of  the  most 
widely-known  health  resorts  in  the  state.  Near 
by  are  numerous  caves,  some  wonderful  in  size 
and  beauty,  and  large  deposits  of  onyx;  this 
onyx  has  been  largely  employed  in  the  interior 
finish  of  a  great  hotel  on  a  mountain  top  over- 
looking the  city.  It  is  a  county  seat  of  Carroll 
County,  and  just  beyond  Kings  River  is  Bcrry- 
ville,  also  a  county  seat  of  that  county. 

Farther  to  the  east  in  a  splendid  agricul- 
tural country-  and  adjacent  to  immense  de- 
posits of  lead  and  zinc,  is  Harrison,  the  county 
seat  of  Boone  County,  with  various  flourishing 
industries.  To  the  northeast  in  the  same  coun- 
ty is  the  busy  town  of  Lead  Hill  and  farther 
eastward  is  I'elk'ille.  the  county  seat  of  Marion 
County,    and  the  principal  mining  town  in  the 


Fig.  6v      /, 


'iisiiicss  district  of  Batesvillc.     A  view 
111  Main  Street. 


Fig.  62.     A  bird's-eye  view  of  Eureka  Spriitc^s.  high  up 
in  tlie  Ozark  Plateau. 


great  zinc  and  lead  fields  of  northern  Arkansas. 
Northeast  lying  on  the  border  of  the  state,  in 
Fulton  County,  is  Mammoili  Spring,  a  delight- 
ful residence  town  and  pleasant  health  resort, 
which  owes  its  name  to  a  spring  that  gives  rise  to 
a  large  and  beautiful  river.  Southward  on  the 
extreme  edge  of  the  plateau  and  on  the  south 
side  of  Little  Red  River  is  Hcbcr,  the  county  seat 
and  chief  town  of  Cleburne  County  and  a 
favorite  summer  resort.  North  and  east  on  the 
north  shore  of  White  River  is  Batesville  (Fig.  6,^), 
Independence  County.  Its  elevation,  natural 
drainage,  pure  water,  and  beautiful  surroundings 
make  it  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  in  the 
state.  It  is  a  busy  railroad  town  and  has  a 
constantly  increasing  wholesale  and  jobbing 
trade  and  manufactures  of  wood- 
work, flour,  and  ice.  Near  the 
city  are  the  great  locks  and  dams 
(Fig.  7)  built  by  the  Federal  Gov- 
ernment in  the  White  River.  Ar- 
kansas College,  one  of  the  oldest 
institutions  in  the  state,  is  lo- 
cated here.  Near  by  are  numer- 
ous deposits  of  marble  and  other 
limestones.  The  Batesville  quar- 
ries furnished  much  of  the  stone 
used  in  the  construction  of  the 
new  Capitol. 

Towns  of  the  Upper  Ouachita 
Region.  Among  a  group  of  cities 
and  towns  in  the  uplands  south 
of   the  Arkansas  is  Hot  Springs 


30 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  OF  ARKANSAS 


(Fig.  64),  one  of  the  most  celebrated  health  and 
pleasure  resorts  on  the  continent  and  the  fourth 
city  in  size  in  the  state.  It  is  often  referred  to 
as  the  "Baden-Baden"  of  America  because  in 
its  situation  and  general  features  it  so  closely 
resembles  the  great  German  watering  place. 
Its  foremost  interest  is  in  the  thermal  or  hot 
springs,  found  here.  These  springs,  famous  for 
the  healing  properties  of  their  waters,  lie  in  the 
center  of  a  Government  Reservation  consisting 
of  four  sections  of  land,  set  off  by  Congress,  in 
1832.  One  free  bath  house,  that  is  under  the 
direct  control  of  the  Government,  and  a 
large  number  of  bath  houses  belonging  to 
private  owners,  who  pay  the  Government  a  cer- 
tain sum  annually  for  the  use  of  the  waters, 
have  been  built  to  accommodate  the  ever- 
increasing  throngs  that  visit  the  springs.  The 
manufacturing  interests  are  limited  to  a  number 
of  planing  mills  and  a  wood-working  plant. 
Surrounded  by  scenery  of  unusual  beauty, 
substantially  and  attractively  built,  with  many 
well-appointed  hotels  and  excellent  boarding 
houses.  Hot  Springs  justly  deserves  its  preemi- 
nent position  among  the  health  and  pleasure 
resorts  of  the  world. 

Midway  between  Hot  Springs  and  Little  Rock 
is  Benton,  the  county  seat  and  chief  town  of 
Saline  County,  with  flourishing  sawmills  and 
cotton  gins.  Southwest  of  Benton  and  about 
twelve  miles  from  Hot  Springs,  is  the  thriving 
town    of    Malvern,    a    railway    town,   principal 


trade  center,  and  county  seat  of  Hot  Springs 
County,  where  are  saw,  shingle,  and  planing 
mills,  and  a  large  plant  for  the  manufacture 
of  lirick.  At  the  head  of  navigation  on  the 
Ouachita  River,  and  due  south  of  Hot  Springs, 
is  the  growing  town  of  Arkadelphia.  It  lies 
on  the  extreme  edge  of  the  plateau,  has  fine 
natural  drainage  and  good  water  power  util- 
ized in  the  manufacture  of  lumber  and  cot- 
ton, and  is  the  site  of  a  foundry  and  machine 
shops.  It  has  excellent  shipping  facilities  and 
a  good  trade  in  cotton  and  other  farm  products. 
Westward  about  thirty  miles  is  the  busy  town 
of  pike  City,  the  county  seat  and  leading  busi- 
ness center  of  Pike  County.  Northwestward  in 
Polk  County  is  the  prosperous  and  growing  town 
of  Mc)ia.  Founded  in  1895,  Mena  has  made 
an  astonishing  growth  and  to-day  is  the  second 
city  in  this  region  and  one  of  the  most  progres- 
sive in  the  state.  Surrounded  by  a  splendid 
agricultural  country  rich  also  in  zinc  and  lead, 
manganese  and  slate,  it  has  a  large  and  growing 
trade  in  cotton,  fruit,  and  other  farm  products, 
and  various  flourishing  industries,  including 
large  lumber  mills  and  productive  zinc  mines. 

Towns  of  the  Eastern  Lowlands.  Within  the 
basin  of  the  Mississippi  lie  the  richest  lowlands 
of  the  United  States,  and  here,  in  Arkansas, 
are  found  Pine  Bluff  and  Helena,  the  third 
and  fifth  cities  in  the  state.  Pine  Bluff  is  on 
the  Arkansas  about  forty  miles  southeast  of 
Little  Rock  and  is  one  of  the  chief  manufacturing 


Fig.  64.     A  general  view  of  the  city  of  Hot  Springs.     This  famous  resort  has  a  beautiful 

situation  in  a  narrow  valley  surrounded  by  picturesque  ranges 

of  forest-clad  mountains. 


THE  GEUGRAPHY  OP  ARKANSAS 


31 


and  commercial  centers  of  the  state.  Among 
its  industrial  interests  are  extensive  lumber 
mills,  large  cotton  compresses,  and  cotton-seed 
oil  mills.  It  has  an  extensive  trade  by  rail  and 
a  large  river  traffic,  a  line  of  packets  connecting 
it  with  Memphis.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the 
river,  and  about  thirty  miles  southeast  of  Pine 
Bluff,  is  Arkansas  Post,  the  oldest  settlement 
in  the  state. 

Arkansas  City,  on  the  Mississippi  River,  is  the 
chief  city  in  the  southeastern  tier  of  counties, 
with  large  cotton  and  lumber  interests  and  good 
shipping  facilities  by  rail  and  river.  Westward, 
in  Drew  County,  is  Monticello,  the  seat  of 
cotton  manufactures  and  with  a  thriving  trade 
in  cotton,  lumber,  and  fruits;  and  directly 
south,  Hamburg,  the  leading  town  and  county 
seat    of    Ashley    County.      Northeast    of    Pine 


Fig.  05,     .4  view  of  Forrest  looking  froin  St.  Francis 
County  Court  House. 


Bluff,  in  Arkansas  County,  is  the  prosperous 
and  growing  town  of  Stuttgart,  with  coal,  oil, 
and  gas  interests  and  directly  north  Lonoke, 
a  flourishing  railroad  town,  the  county  seat  of 
Lonoke  County  where  the  rice  industry  centers, 
and  where  there  is  a  Government  experiment 
station. 

Helena  is  on  the  Mississippi,  and  is  the  most 
important  city  in  the  extreme  eastern  part  of 
the  state.  Lying  in  the  richest  cotton-producing 
region  in  Arkansas,  it  follows  that  it  has  a  large 
trade  by  rail  and  river  with  the  towns  and 
plantations  all  up  and  down  the  valley.  Among 
its  flourishing  industries  is  included  the  largest 
plant  for  the  manufacturing  of  wooden  ware  in 
the  state. 

Northwest  from  Helena  is  Marianna,  a  busy 
trade  and  industrial  center  in  Lee  County,  with 
cotton  gins  and  cotton-seed  oil  and  lumber 
mills;  directly  north  of  Marianna,  on  an  eleva- 


Fio.  66.      .4   street  scene   in  Joncsburo. 

tion  known  as  Crawley's  Ridge,  the  progressive 
town  of  Forrest  (Fig.  65),  a  railroad  center  with 

a    good    trade,    and    with    large 

stave  and  other  factories  and 
cotton-seed  oil  mills;  and  farther 
north  the  enterprising  town  of 
U'viine,  the  leading  railroad  and 
liusiness  center  and  the  county 
seat  of  Cross  County. 

In  the  extreme  northeast,  are 
Jonesboro  and  Paragoiild,  two  of 
the  most  progressive  towns  in 
the  state.  Jonesboro  (Fig.  66)  lies 
on  Crawley's  Ridge,  in  a  splendid  fruit  and 
gardening  region,  and  its  thriving  industrial 
interests  include  barrel,  stave  (Fig.  67),  and 
heading  works,  basket  handle  and  brick  fac- 
tories, and  sawmills.  It  is  a  railroad  town  with 
good  shipping  facilities  and  does  a  large  whole- 
sale and  retail  business.  Paragc^nW  (Fig.  68)  is  a 
leading  railroad  center  with  wood-working,  brick, 


Fig.  67.     A  liard  wood  and  stave  iiiiU.  JuncsUoro. 


32 


THE  GEOGRAPHY  UF  ARKANSAS 


Fig.  6S.     ,4  vicu'  of  Pnictt  Street,  tlie  leadiii;:^ 
thoroitghjare  of  Paragould. 

and  concrete  plants,  lumber  mills,  stave  (Fig.  39) , 
pin,  and  canning  factories,  and  a  grain  elevator. 

Among  a  number  of  thriving  towns  in  the  val- 
leys of  the  White  and  Cache  is  Ncn'port  on  the 
east  bank  of  White  River  and  at  the  crossing  of 
two  railroads,  where  are  thriving  manufactures; 
pearl-bearing  mussel  shells  are  found  in  the  river, 
and  here  in  recent  years  pearl  fishing  has  at- 
tracted much  attention.  Northward,  on  the  west 
shore  of  the  Black,  is  Black  Rock,  in  Lawrence 
County,  with  cotton  gins  and  lumber  mills,  and 
still  farther  north  on  the  same  side  of  the  river, 
Corning,  county  seat  and  chief  trade  center  of 
Clay  County.  South  of  Newport  and  also  on  the 
east  bank  of  White  River  is  Atigusta,  the  coun- 
ty seat  of  Woodruff  County,  where  is  located  a 
factorv  for  making  pearl  buttons  from  mussel 
shells.  To  the  west  is  Searcy,  the  county  seat 
of  White  County,  famous  for  its  white  sulphur 
springs  and  its  excellent  educational  advan- 
tages; it  has  a  good  trade  in  cotton,  straw- 
berries, and  vegetables. 

Southeast,  on  the  west  shore  of  the  White, 
is  Derail  Bluff,  where,  as  at  Augusta,  pearl 
buttons  (Fig.  41)  are  made  and  where  there  is  a 
large  oar  factory  (Fig.  8)  from  which  it  is  said 
the  navies  of  many  countries  receive  their  sup- 
plies of  oars.  Beyond,  on  Cache  River  where 
it  enters  the  White,  is  Clarendon,  the  chief  town 
and  county  seat  of  Monroe,  with  a  stave  and 
an  oar  factory  and  a  foundry  and  machine 
shops;  and  north,  in  the  same  county,  the  flour- 
ishing town  of  Briiiklcy,  where  are  saw  and 
planing  mills,  a  cotton-seed  oil  mill,  stave  and 
heading  factories  and  machine  shops. 

Tcxarkaua,  the  chief  citv  of  the  southwestern 


tier  of  counties,  lies  on  the  border  of  the  state 
adjacent  to  Texarkana,  Texas,  and  industrially 
and  commercially  the  two  cities  really  form  one 
community.  Many  flourishing  industries  and 
numerous  railroads  are  found  here,  and  the 
city  has  a  large  trade.  Near  by,  coal  and 
pottery  clay  are  found.  There  are  wood -work- 
ing plants,  furniture  factories,  a  wagon  factory, 
machine  and  creosote  works,  oil  mills,  and  a 
pottery    plant. 

Northeast  of  Texarkana,  in  Hempstead 
County,  is  Hope  with  thriving  manufactures 
and  a  large  trade  in  peaches;  near  by  is  a  fine 
lithia  spring.  Beyond  Hope,  in  a  region  rich  in 
minerals,  is  Prescott,  the  chief  town  of  Nevada 
County,  a  center  of  lumber  industries,  and 
farther  away  in  Clark  County,  the  thriving 
town  of  Gurdon.  Dc  Queen,  a  growing  indus- 
trial town  in  Sevier  County,  north  of  Tex- 
arkana, has  large  lumber  mills,  other  industries, 
and  a  flourishing  trade. 

East  and  south  from  Texarkana  is  Stamps, 
the  leading  business  center  of  Lafayette  Coun- 
ty, with  car  shops  and  large  lumber  mills; 
southeast.  Magnolia,  the  county  seat  of  Colum- 
bia, with  a  large  trade  in  lumber  and  cotton, 
and  in  the  adjoining  county  the  prosperous 
town  of  Eldorado.  Northward  on  the  Ouachita 
River  and  at  the  crossing  of  two  railroads  is 
Camden  (Fig.  69),  the  center  of  flourishing  in- 
dustries and  an  important  trade.  Northeast  of 
Camden  is  Fordyce,  the  chief  town  and  the 
leading  business  center  of  Dallas  Countv. 


Fig.  6g.     Looking  i^^uth  m  .[ooin,  -  .'kl.',  ^  onidcn. 


